Salisbury Cathedral

The Cathedral completely dominates the town of Salisbury. It's hard to imagine how a town so small could support a cathedral so huge, but I suppose without it the tourism industry would be a lot smaller, since there are plenty of other towns in the area to use as a base for moving on to Stonehenge. And anyway, without the cathedral, the history of the area would have been a lot different.

When the cathedral was originally built over 700 years ago (I think it just celebrated its 750th anniversary?) it did not have the gigantic spire on the top, but that was added in almost as soon as cathedral construction finished. The plan is not the usual cross shape but a Lorraine cross (has two transecting parts), which was interesting to see.

When first laying the foundations, they dug some four feet into the ground, hit the watertable, and laid foundations right on top. Of course in modern times they would have been able to get around the watertable, but not in the 13th century. The roof was originally a very rounded shape, but it was discovered later that the distribution of weight was pushing the tops of the walls outwards, and so the roof was reshaped from the inside to make a taller, pointier shape. On the Tower Tour I took, we actually went inside the roof, and saw the supporting beams. All were wood, but required wood of such thickness as cannot be bent, so the supports are cut out of massive branches--some a lot curvier than others. Also in the space above the arches lies the pipes for the sprinker system, in case a fire should hit the cathedral. Another English cathedral had a fire and the water became trapped in each dip between the arches, and the resulting weight brought the roof down. To avoid a similar fate, valves were installed at the bottom of the ones in the Salisbury Cathedral, which open if the sprinkler system turns on.

The spire itself was added on after the rest of the cathedral was finished. It actually lies off-center, as we saw inside the spire: the supporting cross beams met several feet along a diagonal in the square "tower" section, and of the balconies at the halfway-point up on the spire, one was extremely narrow and its opposite was much wider. The weight of the spire lies more heavily on the columns on the nave side of the tower, and down there one can see the half a foot or so that this side has shifted into the foundations.
Construction of the cathedral and the spire primarily relied on windlasses... and there was one actually inside the spire, original. It was so well-balanced that a nudge with one finger set the wheel moving, no need to act as a human hamster.

Going up into the spire was amazing. We saw the clock that operates the bells... I could have watched that thing run all day! there is no face to the clock, just a system of gears that lifts levers every quarter-hour to the same chimes as recognised from Big Ben. When the lever is lifted, it pulls down on the rope attached to the bell above. We watched the clock when it rang the hour, then watched the bells on the quarter-hour and the half-hour, then the clock again when the bells rang for evening prayer service.

The climb up into the spire involved a lot of narrow spiral staircases, so small I couldn't get half of my foot on them, most without handrails and made of stone. Up and up we climbed, and we could only actually go halfway--about 200 ft of the 400 ft spire. Above that only two can go at once, attached by harnesses to ropes and climbing a series of ladders connecting small platforms.

As mentioned before, the tour took us onto each of the four balconies, affording views of the cardinal directions. On a warmer day it would have been beautiful to behold. This day was below freezing, and the winds were 25-30 mph (they don't allow tours into the spire when the winds get over 80 mph).

The rest of the Salisbury Cathedral was of course fascinating. There was the original clock which rang the bells, dating no later than 1360, and is the oldest working clock in Britain--or anywhere, or something. A set of flags flown by the Wiltshire army regiments, the first two of which were about 200 years old and almost nonexistant, just a vague outline of a crown on what could have been fishing nets under other circumstances. The center of the nave had a Christmas Nativity scene, featuring the creepiest Holy Family and angels I have ever seen. The back stained glass window was dedicated to "Prisoners of Conscience", done in dark blue with scenes like the betrayal of Jesus by Judas.

But this was one of the most fascinating things I have ever seen..
Of the original Magna Carta copies, only four remain, and one of them is housed in Chapter House! Somehow the entire Magna Carta was squeezed onto a single piece of velium, about 18 in wide and 24 in long (my estimates). Of course it was completely unreadable... not because of poor condition (the condition was excellent) but because of the shorthand used to get it all onto that size. The document could have been almost anything.

Also while I was there an archaeological team was just beginning work excavating an area in the center of the nave, where a new fountain was to go. It's the sort of thing we learned about in Archaeology. Just before new construction can begin somewhere, they send in an arch team to excavate it and make sure that the building project won't destroy unknown evidence, and so rescue any artefacts before the work begins. Amazing to see that kind of work in progress.

Stonehenge

The first morning I was in Salisbury I knew I had to go to Stonehenge, before exploring the town of Salisbury. Higher priority.

It was decently chilly in Salisbury when I caught the first bus to Stonehenge, which is about eight miles from town (I would have considered walking, but there was zero shoulder on the roads so I'm glad I didn't), and about two from the wee little town of Amesbury, which I did not see. Taking the first bus was a great idea, as it wasn't that early in the morning and the crowds were smaller as a result. When I left Stonehenge around noon there were so many people taking pictures that it was difficult to feel the site.

So, Stonehenge. It was somehow smaller than I expected. I know my pictures are hard to tell size from, but even with a person for reference... the rope keeping tourists out was too far away to help in any appreciable way with the scale.

What remains of Stonehenge are three concentric circles of large stones, the outermost were the largest and easiest to make out, on the inside they looked like a confused jumble of stones, but the circles are easy enough to make out when viewed from above. The outer stones were absolutely massive, and looked even more so for how tightly they were constructed together.

What most people don't look at at Stonehenge (or so I assume) is the earthworks. Around the flat area of the stone circles is first a ditch, then a raised mound, which both encircle the site. As we learned in Archaeology, this is the exact opposite of a defensive formation, designed to keep people in rather than out, or else to block an outsider's view of the ceremonies within. To the south was a small burial mound, small by my standards anyway. I took a picture of this but it didn't turn out well. Along to the east was a standing megalith separate from the circles, but archaeologists aren't sure as to its intended purpose. Between that megalith and the stone circles were a series of small mounds and pits, with a few large-ish rocks lying flat on the ground. They called the biggest stone the "sacrifice stone" but I'm not sure that this is its original purpose either.

What amazed me: bordering up on the north of the site, separated by a weak rope fence, was a huge flock of sheep. I guess someone has to own that land. I only hope archaeologists excavated that area before allowing sheep to run rampant.

End of Exam Week 2

My archaeology exam was this morning. Strangely enough it took place in a dance room, with mirrors around three walls and a ballet barre. Which was alright except: when the sun came in at a certain angle, bounced off the mirror and into my eye, and looking straight ahead to watch oneself think. Ack, unnerving.

Still it went fine and now my winter break can officially begin!

Today and tomorrow, depending on the Scandinavian country, is St. Lucia day. I was treated to two "almost genuine" Lucia biscuits, which were tasty.

Wintertime

This morning I walked down to KB for the first time since classes finished (so, in about two weeks). Things actually got more treacherous than the last time I came down. Sometime, possibly last night, the temperatures finally fell below freezing, so the perpetually-wet sidewalks actually froze. The temperatures are back above freezing now, but of course not everything has melted yet. Luckily, my walk to KB is mostly south, and so most of the sidewalks were melted. The problem was with the east-west sidestreets, because the sun doesn't get high enough to extend over the buildings, and the ice was just thin enough to not be visible and just thick enough to still be slippery.

I'm starting to believe it doesn't get much colder than this in Edinburgh, although the wind chill makes it quite cold at times.

Luckily it's almost the solstice, and the days will start to get longer again. On December 20th (the furthest weather.com will let me see) the sun will be up from 8:40 AM - 3:40 PM. Oh good, a full seven hours of sun!
Of course where I'm staying over Christmas is even more north, near Ullapool (latitude: 57 N; Edinburgh is at 55 N; Washington DC is at 37 N, and currently getting 9.5 hours of day). By the time I'm there it will get about six hours of daylight. Oh good.
Flora: "It's really too bad you'll be visiting when it's at its absolute worst."

Anyway. I had my first exam yesterday, in Musical Acoustics, which took place in the same room (a basketball court!) as a medic exam. The medics papers were in the front half, so I spent a good two minutes not being able to find my name and flipping out. The acoustics exams were in the back corner. Why we couldn't take the exam in our usual room is beyond me, but the court has a balcony area that one or two of the proctors used to watch us from above. I felt like I was in a prison exercise yard.
Especially because I was seated at the front of a row, and if I need to cheat off of the medic in front of me for a different exam, then clearly I deserve to fail.

Down at KB this morning to turn in two hand-in assignments, which are actually due Thursday and Friday, but my last exam (Archaeology) is Thursday, so might as well turn them in now. So Thursday at noon, when Archaeology is over, I will be a free woman. (Sort of. I need to make study guides for my other two exams, in May. Another point I don't understand: why are my exams for Term 1 physics courses sat in May? Don't ask.)

interchangable

"Reckon" is used so commonly here it no longer sounds like a Southern word to me. Although, my friend has picked up on my habit of saying "I guess" instead. Apparently that's an identifying phrase of mine.

Tomorrow, well, today really, is the last day of classes for the term. Kind of exciting! Only, after this we're meant to be revising ("studying") and I suppose I ought to, too.

-In school (high school) the teachers are teachers. At uni, "teachers" no longer seems to apply. They become "lecturers", and I think "professors" is an accepted, but unused, word.
-The set up is quite a bit like in Harry Potter, for those of you familiar with Hogwarts. I think school lasts for six years. The first four are the Standard Levels, with an exam at the end, like OWLs.
-After that you choose the A-Levels to take over the next two years, also culminating in a final exam, like NEWTs. Most people take about five.


Today I accomplished several important things with my life completely unrelated to exams.
1. I walked my passport and other identifying items to the far end of Princes St, the commercial area, about 45 minutes' worth of fast walking. There they got photocopied and soon enough I will be an official volunteer at CHSS!
2. Train tickets for my winter travels.


We've been learning in Archaeology of Scotland about a Bronze Age settlement in the Hebrides in which bog-mummified bodies were excavated from the foundations of the houses. It's some pretty crazy stuff, check it out.

Autumn in Edinburgh

Last Friday was the second-to-last match of the Rugby World Cup, so I was able to watch the entire Argentina vs. France game for bronze. I think I understood the entire match, which is great for it being only the third or so rugby game I've watched all the way through.

Saturday night was the final, England and South Africa. Walking around the streets in the afternoon was interesting, because many of the native Edinburgers were discussing the upcoming game, wearing their Scotland jerseys, stocking up on lager, etc. As you can imagine, most Scots were rooting for South Africa. But there's also enough English in this city that England flags were everywhere. I wasn't planning on watching the final, but I wound up at one of the pubs frequented by students where a huge crowd had amassed. The pub itself is small, but it has a large outdoor area with about forty picnic tables, all completely full of students, then a solid wall of extremely tall guys standing up at the edge. I stood behind a few of these men, and so could see about 10% of the large projection screen. Not very good for following the match.
South Africa won, to the chagrin of the England supporters, and the delight of everyone else. As soon as the match finished, the previously-empty sidewalks were flooded with fans, including my group. Not twenty seconds later, the sound of police and ambulance sirens drowned out the cheering. Not surprised that a rugby match involving England would end in violence.

I think the World Series is going on at home? I only hear vague snippets, mostly overhearing American students talking about it. With the rugby gone, I'm not sure what sport will fill the void. Football (soccer), I guess.

In the past week the weather has changed very suddenly. Trees have turned golden and now the sidewalks are full of crunchy leaves. The early mornings (anything before sunrise which is at about 8 AM) have temperatures hovering just above freezing. It's not the temperatures that are bad, really, it's the wind... Edinburgh has the fortunate nickname "The Windy City", and it is very true.
At the same time, the gardens I pass by on the way to KB are even more colorful than before. A lot of roses, especially, and some gardenias, hydrangeas, some flowering trees that look like azaleas... beautiful!

Also on Saturday I poked around the Archaeology section of the National Museum of Scotland, about a fifteen-minute walk from home. The museum is split into two huge buildings, and probably takes over a day to see everything---something I would like to do eventually, and it is entirely free, so. The Archaeology was extremely interesting, so even if I didn't have to write a short paper on my findings, I would still have enjoyed it. All the artefacts in the collection are from Scottish sites. In Britain, anything dug up must be reported to a government branch dedicated to preserving the cultural and material history, and artefacts belong to the nation as a whole (or maybe the Queen? not sure). A council decides where the artefacts should go after they are analyzed---a local, regional, educational, or national museum, usually, so that they are completely accessible to the public. As a result, the collections of Scottish archaeological finds are impressive, and this exhibit was very well done.

I feel that my Archaeology of Scotland class is teaching me more about Scotland's geography and climate than I would have otherwise learned. I know all about how the Ice Age shaped the Highlands, where waterways are, the quality of the soil in different places. Completely impractical knowledge for me, but fascinating.

Tutorials

I have mentioned tutorials a few times now. Well, so far this week I have gone to four tutorials, one for each class. As a taste of what we do, I will summarize them, below:

Archaeology: we looked at aerial photographs copied out of a book to discuss the landmarkings. Mostly the tutor talked and we listened. We also got to look at a few maps. On these, if an artefact was found in a particular site, it was actually labelled on the map! There were several small circles labeled "cairn" or "fort", usually at the top of a hill, and there was even a square shape marked "Roman fort" and a point for "broch (remains of)".

Musical Acoustics: The tutor talked about each of the frequency spectrograms seen here. Then we watched two you tube videos, because they were relevant(?).
Beatboxing Flute, "Inspector Gadget" theme We watched the full 3:30.
Mozart played on wine bottles A much shorter piece, but no less impressive.
I could have done all of those things from home.

Physical Mathematics: I really didn't understand the problem set before, because we didn't have the material yet in lecture, but I quickly discovered I could do the math without having learned the concepts yet. I finished the PS in tutorial, not something I would have done in an hour on my own time.

Quantum Mechanics: Did not understand how to do the PS at all. I struggled to exchange coordinates for about 20 minutes on one problem, gave up, asked the tutors for help, played with the numbers for the next hour, and finally got it. The rest of the problems came much easier after I understood what I was doing.... I think.
Again, I would not have completed that problem set in two hours on my own time, nor without the tutors' help.

Crannog Center

Today was a full-day Archaeology of Scotland field trip to the Scottish Crannog Centre on Loch Tay. A crannog is a circular structure built up on stilts along the shore of a lake. There are some remains found in Switzerland, and many many many in Scottish lochs. Loch Tay, in particular, there have been 18 remains of these crannogs found. And because the remains are underwater (especially in cold, dark lochs) very little decays.

So this particular crannog was built based on one crannog excavated in the same loch, and there were many artefacts found that would not normally make it, like textiles with their original colors and a butter dish with bits of butter still on. But mostly, the crannog itself was impressive. There was a raised bridge/dock/thing to get out to the structure, built on piers with just logs as a path... logs which were not lashed at all on the edges, so it was a little bouncy and unstable. Inside, which was quite roomy, the floor was the same but had a fern/weed covering, like hay might be used, and the thatched roof was incredibly high---to keep snow from sticking, and to allow the passage of smoke out.

On the shore was a small exhibition of Iron Age technology, including three kinds of lathes. The coolest one had a foot petal attached to a small tree on either side. When pushed down, the connecting ropes pulled down the trees, which in turn set the lathe spinning, so both hands could be used to scrape the wood. Other technology included using bows to spin sticks and grind down a hole in the center of a stone, to then use as a weight in weaving, fishing, or spinning wool. And a bow could also be used to start a bit of wood smouldering from friction. We were also showed a fungus that grows on the side of trees. A little chip from the fungus will burn for a full day, slow and steady, and can be used to start a campfire when on the move.

You might notice that I changed the picture links to the right-hand side. Whenever I update photos, I will change the date, so you can just glance over and see if how lazy I've been about picture taking. I will also note in my blog when I add photos, so go on over and have a look, I took a few at the crannog today.

The only problem with the field trip today was that it took about three hours to drive there, we spent about two on-site, and it was another 2-3 driving back. A lot of transportation time for a little bit of crannog time.

However, the fact we got to talk to the lead archaeologist of the project, and ask him questions about the work he did, was so cool!

Couldn't be bothered.

Yesterday at CHSS I steamed things for close to three hours, with frequent breaks for coffee, biscuits, and refilling the hot water supply. If I actually worked retail, I would have been upset at steaming clothing for such a long time, but as it's volunteer work I find I don't mind. A lot of things are like that. (Also, steaming trousers or skirts is fine, but I dislike steaming blouses/shirts. A lot.)

Today I did a lot of odd jobs. I combed the bookshelves looking for a replacement book for a boxed set of Wilson Smith (?) novels. I took some items out from the front (culling?). I spent a long time choosing outfits for the mannequins, and I did up the front window! Again, something I would not have enjoyed quite so much had I been paid.

It's nice working in that shop. The women are definitely genuinely Scottish. They say a lot of very Scottish things, and especially on the phone I can't understand them nearly so well. I think they tone it down when talking to me, and I have to censor my own Americanisms out because mostly I've had to rephrase when I do use them.
-to ken is to know, as in "You ken what I mean."
-a hen is a familiar word for a woman. It can be used as a term of endearment, today I was told, "Would you like a cuppa, my hen?". Or you can have a night out with the hens, with the girlfriends.

Also, the Assistant Manager yesterday asked me if I had a favorite pub. That was a little awkward, I don't think that question would be asked back home by a supervisor so much older.

-Braces are suspenders. Suspenders are garters. Garters are used for knee socks.
...Important information when you want the men's product used to hold up trousers. Don't ask a group of guys if they have suspenders you can borrow, only those familiar with the American usage won't snigger/act offended.
-"Consolidants" are adhesives? I think?
-the famous Egyptian pharoah Tutankamun is pronounced "too-tank-ham-OON"
-status as "state-us"

Scottish soil is extremely acidic and breaks artefacts down rapidly, so it is difficult to find remains of the past. There are exceptions to this, of course, most notably peat bogs. It is taken for granted that everyone in the class has firsthand experience with peat bogs.
I am learning more about the Scottish climate through Archaeology class than I ever expected. Don't think it rivals what I know about VA, but it's still quite a bit.

Other common words: pile (a lot of stuff), bit (thingy, or in "wee bit"), ehm (umm), squiggly (especially "squiggly bits"), squashed, ace (good).

One of my favorite phrases: "Can't be bothered." It means "I just don't want to, I don't feel like it."
"I was meant to do my maths work, but I couldn't be bothered."
"She couldn't be bothered to eat dinner with me."
This phrase is going to stick.